2005 Pichler, FX - Riesling Durnsteiner Kellerberg Smaragd Riesling - Austria - Niederosterreich - Wachau - White

($76) Pale green-yellow. Intense mineral and spice notes lift the fruit aromas of ripe peach and orange and grapefruit zest. Very stylish wine with a firm but delicate structure. The complex fruit-driven flavors of bergamot-infused apricot are completed by a finishing flavor of white peach. Offers terrific potential for positive development in bottle.

The 2005 Riesling Smaragd Kellerberg (tasted from cask) offers ripe pit fruits and only subtle pepperiness in the nose, then comes on the palate rich and full (with 14.2% alcohol) yet sappy and bright as well. This lacks the multi-dimensionality of the very best Kellerberg Rieslings at this address, nor has it the poise and dynamic of the Loibenberg. But there is such opulent richness of fruit together with such a seemingly inexhaustible wealth of juicy citricity and subtly peppery minerality that one cannot help but be deeply impressed. My experience suggests that as it betrays at most the faintest hint of heat, this wine's alcohol will not catch up with it as it ages.

Rich and opulent, with mouthwatering flavors of ripe apple, citrus and sea salt. Shows fine balance and structure, with laserlike acidity, lentil and savory spice notes, and a hint of honey on the finish. 666 cases made.