1996 Pol Roger - Cuvee Sir Winston Churchill Champagne Blend - France - Champagne - White

($225) Bright gold with a lively mousse Deep, pungent nose features powerful scents of minerals, saffron, pear, lilac, buttered apple, pear, white peach and marzipan. Broad and improbably concentrated, the pear and apple flavors packing a huge punch and complicated by buttery, leesy tones. As rich and supple as this is, it also boasts brilliant cut. Finishes with expansive, exotic spice and pear notes, and superb focus and length. This spent nine years on its lees. Already delicious but I'd opt for holding this one for another decade before popping the cork. (Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY)

Probably the foremost Winston Churchill that the world has ever seen since the prime minister passed away! Incomparably grand and impressive. This wine thunders forth like a symphony by Beethoven. The kettle drums are at full blast and the bass is impossibly heavy. But still, Pol Roger's eminently amiable drinkable quality and elevating acid are present. A wine with which to fill your cellar. Fairly soon to enter a tunnel unfortunately, so hang on for a while!

The structure of the 1996 vintage is softened by a fine, silky mousse in this intensely wrought bubbly. Fresh, with citrus, berry, nut and coffee aromas and flavors and a rounded finish. 500 cases imported.

The 1996 Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill is an immensely rewarding, complete Champagne that is drinking well today but that also has the potential to continue to improve in bottle. Nothing in particular stands out here, but as is often the case with this cuvee, I am struck by the wine's awesome balance and supreme harmony. Simply put, this is a strikingly beautiful wine from Pol Roger.