NV Billecart-Salmon - Brut Rose Champagne Blend - France - Champagne - Rose

($75) Pale, orange-tinged pink. Vibrant, spicy aromas of orange peel, ruby-red grapefruit and floral honey. Focused and pure, with juicy orange and tangy rhubarb flavors and a lush, velvety texture. This is weightier than previous bottlings of this cuvee, but has the usual precision and lift expected by long-time fans of this rose. Finishes with juicy citrus flavors and a late mineral jolt.

Billecart-Salmon is one of my favorite Champagne houses, and their non-vintage Rose (Lot #L85547401905M) is a consistent winner. A delicate pink color is accompanied by gorgeous sweet cherry, strawberry, and mineral-like scents, assertive medium-bodied flavors, a delicate, crisp personality, and surprising depth as well as persistence. A beautiful berry character in the finish adds to this impeccable rose's captivating style.

As opposed to many other wine writers, I do not believe that this wine should be drunk in its infancy! After five or six years more years in the bottle, the salmon-pink color gains an orange tone. The elegant, fruity nose gets deeper and nuttier, the flavor more serious and prolonged. A half bottle-with a cork as straight as a rod-at the Tour d'Argent restaurant in Paris in 1993 was outstanding. Not the same quality after 2005.

A coiled spring of a Champagne, with its berry and bread dough notes locked up in the structure. This needs time or food to mellow and reveal its charms. Good length, with a candied cherry aftertaste.