($98; this spent 61 months on its lees and was disgorged in August, 2006) Medium gold. Rich, smoky, deep aromas of leesy apple, apricot pit, pomegranate and rhubarbs. A chewy, substantial, medium-bodied wine with a distinctly toasty cast to its flavors of ripe pit fruits, toffee, fresh porcini and truffle. Serve this big, dense Champagne (I'm more tempted to call it a wine) with hearty, richly sauced dishes or the strongest cheeses. Not for those who prefer a racy style, but fans of the type will love it.