Hazy yellow. Wild, intensely perfumed bouquet evokes citrus pith, poached pear, ginger and iodine, with a smoky overtone and emphatic spiciness. The iodinery minerality of this wine reminds me of uni! Deeply pitched citrus fruit and floral flavors are braced by tangy acidity and complemented by toasted nut and honey nuances. Clings with outstanding tenacity, leaving notes of smoky minerals and lemon zest behind.

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There is plenty of near- and medium-term appeal in the 2010 Chardonnay Ma Belle-Fille. Along with the Mon Plaisir, the Belle-Fille is among the most overt of the Peter Michael Chardonnays. Pears, almonds, marzipan, pastry and white flowers flesh out beautifully in the glass. The style is seamless, creamy and expressive. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2022.

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Rich and full-bodied, with intense peach, fig, nectarine and honeysuckle flavors that have a raw, pithy texture now. The fruit gains the upper hand, even if the finish rambles rather than soothes. 1,770 cases made.

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