Hazy yellow color. Candied orange and pear on the pungent, intensely perfumed nose. Lush and creamy on entry, then tighter in the mid-palate, offering palate-staining citrus and pit fruit flavors with complicating notes of honeysuckle and chalky minerals. Finishes broad and chewy, with excellent thrust and lingering spiciness. The most exotic of this set of chardonnays today and the one that I would drink first.

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From the oldest Chardonnay vines on the estate, the 2010 Chardonnay Belle-Cote, is all about structure. Crushed rocks, lemon, white flowers and smoke all take shape as the 2010 opens up. There is plenty of intrigue and complexity in this classy, beautifully delineated Chardonnay. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2023.

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There is much to admire in this complex mix of anise, fig, citrus, tangerine, hazelnut and melon flavors. The texture is what separates the 2010s, and here it is a bit raw and coarse. The intense finish shows a dash of smokiness. Needs time.

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