Deep ruby. An intensely perfumed bouquet evokes dried cherry, cassis, potpourri and smoked meat, with a spicy nuance adding vivacity. Rich but energetic on the palate, offering sweet dark fruit flavors and notes of candied lavender and anise. Chewy tannins add grip to a long, smoky and powerful finish, which leaves a bitter cherry note behind. Definitely built for the long haul; don't touch this wine for at least six or seven years.

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The 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Reservee, which I tasted from several foudres, is essentially equivalent in quality, but it has not yet been bottled. If I understood Paul Feraud correctly, he tends to prefer the 2009, but says Laurence prefers the 2010. In any event, this is one of those "pick'em" dilemmas. The 2010 is a fabulous wine of exceptional intensity, tremendous flavor authority and full-bodied power. It is slightly more reserved than the more flamboyant 2009, but of course it is still in foudre. Very rich with lots of Provencal herb, smoky, meaty, kirsch, black currant and blackberry notes, it is a stunningly viscous, thick and rich effort with a slightly more vibrant finish. This magnificent Chateauneuf du Pape should age for three decades or more based on how well the 1989 and 1990 are maturing. This 2010 should be bottled early next year, and released in Fall, 2013.

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This is very stony, with lots of cut to the lemon zest, verbena, melon rind and white peach flavors. Crunchy and lively through the finish. Drink now through 2012. 150 cases made.

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