Pale yellow-gold. Intensely perfumed bouquet of melon, pear skin, white flowers and iodine, with a chalky overtone. Deeply pitched, palate-staining orchard fruit and lemon curd flavors are lifted by zesty acidity and pick up a smoky quality with air. Rich but light on its feet, finishing with outstanding thrust and lingering florality. I also had the chance to retaste the 2009 bottling of this wine and it has put on weight since last year without loss of vivacity; I'd bet on it being at its peak in about three years.

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The 2010 Chardonnay Estate is stunning. Dried pears, lemon, white flowers and crushed rocks are woven together in a Chardonnay that impresses for its exceptional balance and pure harmony. Subtle, refined and impeccably polished, the 2010 is all about harmony. This is one of the richer Chardonnays readers will come across from the true Sonoma Coast, and it is fabulous. The 40% new oak barrels are totally integrated. It will be fascinating to see how the 2010 ages. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020.

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