(bottled three weeks prior to my visit): Bright yellow. Subdued aromas of white peach, pineapple and white flowers lifted by spicy clove oil. At once elegant and penetrating, showing superb depth and building energy to its bracing citrus-dominated flavors. Nothing exotic about this beauty. Really leaves the taste buds vibrating. A great showing for this pure, beautifully balanced baby: I'd cellar it for a decade.

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Things go up a notch or two with the 2010 Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet, which appears to hover on the palate with the grace of a ballerina. The Bienvenues is all about weightless elegance and implied structure, but it is all there in the glass. At times a bit intellectual, the Bienvenues is nevertheless immensely appealing. Layers of soft, perfumed fruit flow effortlessly to the nuanced, feminine finish. A hint of floral honey and almonds lingers on the palate. I can't wait to see how this ages. Anticipated maturity: 2020+.

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