(two new demi-muids of this; made from a tiny parcel of old vines grenache that was planted in 1905; bottled exclusively in magnums): Bright ruby. A strikingly complex bouquet evokes candied red and dark berries, potpourri, sandalwood and Asian spices. Smells like an exotic Grand Cru Burgundy from a ripe vintage. Coats the palate with sweet black and blue fruit and floral pastille flavors that gain energy and spiciness with air. Gentle tannins give shape and grip to an endless, sweet, penetrating finish.

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My favorite wine in the world may be Clos Saint-Jean's 100% Grenache Chateauneuf du Pape Sanctus Sanctorum, which comes from old vines planted between 1902 and 1905 in the La Crau sector. The 2010 (820 magnums produced) hit 16.7% natural alcohol, but one would never know that from the wine's intensity. This magical wine boasts an inky/ruby/purple color, astonishing richness and an extraordinary perfume of black raspberries, blackberries, licorice, lavender and loamy soil. So pure, unctuous and viscous, it is over-the-top in richness and intensity. Like all of the world's greatest wines, it is an intellectual and hedonistic beauty that is capable of pure magic in its aromas and flavors. It should hit full maturity in about a decade, and last at least three decades thereafter.

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A lush, heady style, with raspberry coulis, blackberry paste and plum pate de fruit notes layered with toasted wood spice and baker's chocolate notes. The finish picks up more and more grip with air in the glass. Will benefit from cellaring.

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