(13.2% alcohol; from vines planted in 1977): Deep red. Pungent, complex aromas of cherry, crushed raspberry, black tea and orange zest. Dense and sappy, with old-viney creaminess of texture leavened by edgy acidity. The lively red fruit, floral and spice flavors are further lifted by a repeating note of orange zest on the back end. Offers very good cut but will need bottle aging to unwind. Winemaker Thomas Brown told me that light precipitation at the beginning of October perked up the fruit in this dry-farmed vineyard, but that he brought in the grapes on October 11, just before the heavier rains. This might have been even better for a few more days of hang time, but I would not be at all surprised if it merited a higher score several years from now.

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