(includes 2% merlot; 90% estate grown fruit from Champoux, the rest from Klipsun and Tapteil): Deep ruby-red. Black fruits, licorice and sandalwood on the nose. Offers uncanny sweetness and depth, not to mention great breadth of texture to the plush flavors of dark berries, chocolate and expensive oak. At once chewy and seamless cabernet, finishing extremely long and smooth, with big but thoroughly suave tannins.

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Incorporating a mere 2% of Merlot (from Palengat Vineyard) and dominated by fruit from Champoux, with strong assists from Red Mountain's Klipsun and Tapteil, Quilceda Creek's 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon perpetuates the deeply toasted nuttiness, bittersweet herbal intensity, and above all chocolate and dark berry confiture familiar from its stable mates. But here there are liberal sprinklings of baking spices; headily decadent floral garlands; and high-toned suggestions of fruit distillate ' kirsch, framboise, sloe ' to add complexity and allure. As with the other Quilceda 2009s, torrefaction and richness are not purchased at the expense of vivacity, as this flagship Cabernet positively courses with energy, leaving the tongue aquiver. The sheer palate-staining finishing intensity of berry concentrate brings some realization of the tannin underlying this powerful Cabernet, but given how mouth-coating and sweetly rich it is, no obvious sense of grain let alone roughness can be detected. I suspect this will have two decade's solid aging potential.

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Pure and impressively expressive, with focused currant, plum, blackberry and black olive aromatics turning on the palate to a more complex profile, weaving in coffee, creÌ?me bruÌ?leÌ�e and chai tea notes, all wrapped in a polished texture. The finish doesn't want to quit.

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