(a 63/37 blend of merlot and cabernet sauvignon): Bright ruby-red. Inviting aromas of plum, mocha and lead pencil. Lush, sweet, ripe berry flavors display good verve and definition. At once serious and juicy wine, finishing with plush, building tannins and outstanding length. Terrific mountain intensity here.

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The Merlot-based 2009 Claret Reserve is gorgeous. Juicy dark cherries, tobacco, smoke and cloves jump out of the glass. The Merlot gives the wine much of its suppleness, while the Cabernet adds the structure and pure mountain tannin. Even with all of its richness, the 2009 remains light on its feet for such a big wine. The 2009 boasts striking balance and tons of harmony. The blend is two-thirds Merlot and one-third Cabernet Sauvignon. Naturally, the Claret doesn't have the personality of the estate's variety wines, but it is compelling just the same. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2029.

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