Bright violet color. Wildly complex scents of black raspberry, cherry compote, sassafras, allspice and licorice. Lush and palate-staining, with noteworthy intensity to its open-knit dark berry, spicecake and floral pastille flavors. Silky tannins come on late and meld smoothly with the deep, sappy fruit, which refuses to let go of the palate. I underestimated this powerful, vibrant wine last year.

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The 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve des Deux Freres is probably the softest, most forward and evolved wine the Usseglios have made under this designation. Luscious, with loads of fig, black cherry jam, camphor and licorice-infused blackberry notes, the wine is concentrated, rich, and while still primary, capable of lasting 15-20 years. It is certainly the most seductive and early drinking Reserve des Deux Freres produced to date, and finished at 15.5% natural alcohol.

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This has a touch more muscle and drive than many of its peers, with smoldering tobacco and dark espresso notes leading the way for a core of crushed plum, braised fig and steeped black currant notes. The long finish has lots of iron-tinged grip.

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