Dark ruby. Wild, highly aromatic bouquet of dark berry liqueur, cherry pit, smoked meat and garrigue. Deeply pitched black raspberry and bitter cherry flavors are broad and sappy, with a smoky floral quality appearing on the back. The long finish features gentle tannic grip and lingering smokiness. Fans of old-school Chateauneuf are going to love this wine.

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The bottled 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Reservee is as compelling as I thought it would be after tasting it last year. A blend of 85% Grenache with the rest Syrah, Mourvedre and small dollops of the other authorized varietals, this wine tends to come from the estateâÂ?Â?s holdings in the eastern sector of Chateauneuf du Pape. The opaque purple-colored 2009 exhibits magnificent, rich berry fruit intertwined with cedar, Christmas fruitcake, licorice, charcuterie, roasted meats, smoked duck, kirsch, blackberries and god knows what else. It is an amazingly complex, rich, full-throttle wine that reminds me somewhat of what the 1990 tasted like in 1994/1995. It is a magnificent Chateauneuf du Pape. If you are looking for the garrigue component, itâÂ?Â?s also there.

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Dark and dense, with stunning espresso, warm ganache and roasted plum aromas giving way to layers of black currant, braised fig and licorice root. The long, grip-filled finish is framed by a strong roasted mesquite edge and a lingering note of brick dust. A wild wine, with loads going on. Just needs cellaring to round into form.

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