Ruby-purple. Vibrant blackcurrant, blackberry and smoke aromas show noteworthy depth and purity. Big and ripe on the palate, but with lovely balance to its black fruit and smoke flavors. The very long, pure finish features a lingering mineral streak and very fine tannins. This exceptional vintage of Pape Clement packs an amazing amount of concentration on a seemingly weightless frame. More important still, although it pushes the ripeness envelope as most of the wines of Bernard Magrez do, it manages to come across as refined and graceful, even though it's almost brutally powerful.

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A blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, and 5% Cabernet Franc, the 2009 Pape Clement is not as dense or provocative as the 2005, but it is a worthy competitor. Tighter and more muscular than the 2005, the 2009 reveals an opaque purple color along with notes of graphite, blueberries, and blackberries, stunning richness, a full-bodied mouthfeel, and tremendous length and intensity. Some patience will be required, and I do not believe this effort will achieve the near perfection of the 2005, but it is another winner in this extraordinary vintage. Yields were 43 hectoliters per hectare, and the wine finished around 13.5% alcohol. (Tasted four times.)

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Rich and muscular, with exotic roasted spice, braised fig and warm raspberry confiture notes that are supported by a broad baseline of dark cocoa, tar and freshly brewed espresso. Not shy about its modernity, but everything is in place. Just needs to settle in with cellaring.

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