Bright gold. Flamboyantly perfumed bouquet of lemon curd, yellow plum, melon and vanilla, with a smoky mineral topnote. Dense, chewy and focused, offering intense pit fruit and floral flavors and a sneaky note of honey. Broad and opulent but also dry, conveying a strong impression of extract. Finishes sappy and very long, with resonating floral and smoky elements.

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The 2009 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvee Cathleen, from Wente clones, saturates the palate with honey, yellow flowers, marzipan, tangerine and apricots. It possesses stunning depth and intensity, along with persistent saline notes that add lift on the creamy, expansive finish. The Cuvee Cathleen is considerably richer than the straight Kistler Vineyard. Both are striking; which one readers ultimately prefer is strictly personal preference.

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