Good full medium red. Inviting aromas of plum, redcurrant, dark raspberry, smoked meat and minerals, with lively floral lift. Then juicy and tight on entry, conveying a stronger impression of acidity but less early sweetness than the Costa Russi. There's plenty of alcohol here but also terrific depth of dark fruit, especially on the long back end. Serious tannins arrive late and give this suave wine a strong backbone for aging.

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The 2009 Sori Tildin is a fascinating wine. The vineyard sits just above Costa Russi, separated only by the road that leads to Alba. This is an especially imposing vintage for Sori Tildin. Over time, the wine's signature nuances and details begin to emerge. A radiant, sensual personality rounds things out nicely. This is a great showing from Gaja. The 2009 shuts down quickly in the glass, and is likely to demand a measure of patience from readers. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2039.

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The oak is well-integrated here in the form of sandalwood, bacon fat and smoke flavors, shading the cherry, licorice and tobacco notes. Firm, staying elegant and finishing with spice notes.

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