Good medium red. Very ripe, almost liqueur-like aromas of plum and nuts; lower-pitched than the 2009 Barbaresco classico. Fat, sweet and filled in but less expressive today than the Barbaresco. Plenty of flesh and backbone. Here the tannins arrive later and build. Seems the ripest of these 2009s.

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The overt fruit and depth typical of Costa Russi comes through in spades in the 2009. Plums, black cherries, chocolate and new leather form the core of this round, expressive Costa Russi. As beautiful as this is, the 2009 remains deeply marked by the vintage. There is plenty of beauty and richness in the glass, but not quite the sheer visceral thrill of the very best Costa Russis. Although I wouldn't open any of the 2009 single-vineyard wines in the near-term, the Costa Russi is the most expressive of the three. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2029.

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Perfumed and pure, this red delivers floral, berry and spice flavors on a harmonious frame. There's a touch of licorice as this tightens up on the finish.

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