Opaque purple. Heady scents of mineral-accented dark berries, cherry-vanilla, licorice and incense, along with a smoky topnote. Lush and creamy in texture, with incisive, palate-staining blackberry, blueberry and licorice pastille flavors. Silky tannins build on the finish, which leaves behind notes of blue fruit compote, vanilla and exotic spices. This wine is almost shockingly approachable now but is built for the long haul.

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The most prodigious wine I have yet tasted from the Delas portfolio is the brilliant 2009 Hermitage Les Bessards. Its inky/purple color is followed by abundant notes of acacia flowers, blackberries, black currants, new saddle leather, roasted meats and graphite, amazing concentration, a skyscraper-like texture, supple but significant tannin and low acidity. The result is a perfect example of Syrah from this great vineyard site in Hermitage. It will offer immense pleasure for 40+ years.

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Dense and chewy, with lots of espresso, loam and roasted apple wood notes that have yet to meld fully, backed by ganache, plum sauce and steeped blackberry notes. There's lots of grip on the finish, with violet and anise notes deeply buried. On the dark side of the spectrum for sure, but with superior range nonetheless.

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