Tasted in four components that were to be blended at the end of November, 2011: #1: Deep cherry and dark berries on the nose and palate, with slow-mounting spiciness and serious finishing cling and power. #2: Wilder and more pungent, offering intense floral-accented red and dark berry qualities and notes of olive and candied licorice. This is mostly Meal, according to Chave. #3: Deep, smoky and aromatic, displaying an array of dark berry and spice qualities and a strong potpourri note. Juicy and focused on the finish, with the dark fruit note repeating. #4: Stunning aromas of violet, rose, black raspberry and cola, with a blast of Asian spices on the back. Juicy, mineral-driven and pure, with excellent finishing clarity and lingering sweetness. This should be a stunner.

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The greatest wines Chave has produced since 2003 are the two cuvees of 2009 Hermitage. The 2009 Hermitage exhibits a black/purple color along with a sumptuous nose of roasted meats, ground pepper, black currants, blackberry jam, and subtle smoke and licorice. The extraordinary bouquet is followed by a wine of extravagant intensity as well as tremendous focus and precision. While not as powerful as the blockbuster 2003, the amazing 2009 may turn out to be a modern day version of their magnificent 1990 (which is drinking incredibly well at present). Anyone who loves Hermitage and has a cold cellar should be lining up to get a few bottles of this beauty.

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Captivating from the start, with gorgeous ganache and Lapsang souchong aromas that give way to an immense core of crushed plum, braised fig and steeped blackberry notes, all woven with pastis, loam and charcoal. Shows terrific density and drive through the long, well-structured finish. This has the fruit of the vintage in spades, but with an extra dimension of grip and length.

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