The reflections are the classic light gold-green hues of a fine Chablis. The barest touch of oak highlights the green fruit, menthol, saline and iodine aromas that precede the extremely stony, concentrated and driving flavors that are also blessed with ample amounts of dry extract that provides a much needed balancing element to the ripe acid backbone on the chalky and sappy finish. When Valmur is really good, it rivals Les Clos for the best grand cru in Chablis and this 2008 is really good.

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(domain wine) Pale, green-tinged yellow. Brisk, high-pitched aromas of lime, powdered stone and quinine. Densely packed and silky but still youthfully taut, with terrific energy and inner-mouth lift to its citrus, mineral and fresh herb flavors. This impressively broad yet weightless wine finishes with palate-staining length and grip. A great Chablis grand cru in the making.

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Aged 12-15 months on fine lees in oak. It’s so hard to describe a wine like this because it doesn’t really have a lot of flavour but it’s full of energy, focused, persistent, clean cut and so refreshing, and has great length. Sucking stones. (JH)

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Pronouncedly citric and briny, Fevre's 2008 Chablis Valmur is like an ocean wave suffused with chalk and fresh lime, dramatic in its mineral depth and uncanny in its alliance of density and silken texture with vivacity and levitating buoyancy. There is a dominance of mineral elements that some may find austere, but even many of those same tasters will recognize in this wine a measure of how far Chardonnay - like Pinot - can depart from fruit and vegetable reference points and enter an almost ineffable oceanic and geological realm. I suspect this has the potential for well more than a decade's worth of intrigue.

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Very clean and lemony, yet with roundness and flesh on the palate. Lemon cake, apple and mineral are the main flavors, with hints of flowers and spice. There's a long, flinty, mouthwatering aftertaste.

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