(from Vaulorent) This is almost as aromatically complex but the profile is completely different as here the nose runs away from the floral and more toward green fruit and minerality that is classic Chablis in character and this character is reflected by the rich and full-bodied flavors that are serious and seem to ooze minerality on the saline and wonderfully intense finish.

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($34) Pale, green-tinged yellow. Smoky and ripe on the nose, with hints of honey and menthol. A peachy fruit bomb on the palate, much rounder than the Montee de Tonnerre but with the vintage's firm acidity. Can't quite match the Montee de Tonnerre for class but finishes quite long, with lingering peachy fruit. This will need time in bottle to express itself fully.

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The Fevre 2008 Chablis Fourchaume smells of lemon and blood orange, ocean breeze and crushed chalk, leading to an especially bright, zesty, slightly sharp, but bracing and admirably long palate impression. Bitter citrus pip and rind notes as well as rather adamantly stony minerality are perfectly integrated. This might well gain some sense of richness with a few years in bottle and should be worth following for at least half a dozen. Expect it to perform well for at least a half dozen years.

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A taut, elegant white, with lemon, apple and mineral flavors well-integrated with the firm structure. There's a beam of energy here that carries through to the lingering aftertaste of flint.

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