($145; includes 11% syrah and 1.5% viognier) Opaque ruby. An intensely perfumed bouquet displays aromas of black raspberry, Asian spices, rose oil and lavender, with a bright suggestion of white pepper. Juicy and penetrating red and dark fruit flavors reach every corner of the palate and show very impressive depth and clarity. Rich but energetic on the finish, which repeats the sweet berry and floral notes. Wild stuff and surprisingly approachable already.

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2008 The Line: This wine was just released in April of this year, and is a blend of 87.5% Grenache, 11% Syrah, and 1.5% Viognier, with 21% whole clusters used in the Grenache component. Seventy-eight percent of it came from the 11 Confessions Vineyard and the balance from Bien Nacido and the White Hawk. It is no measly wine at 15.5% alcohol, but it displays extraordinary berry fruit and kirsch notes intermixed with lavender and other floral components. Intense, full-bodied, voluptuously textured, and stunningly pure, with no real noticeable oak (21% new French oak was used, most of it the larger demi-muids), this beauty has put on weight and is showing additional complexity since I first tasted it. Anticipated maturity: now-2023.

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Smooth, rich, complex and layered, offering juicy, racy red currant, raspberry and boysenberry notes, with shades of pepper and spice. Full-bodied, deep and focused, ending with a long, pure, elegant, engaging finish that keeps the fruit front and center.

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Ultra-ripe notes and flavors of blackberry, blueberry compote, cassis, licorice, and allspice combine to make this a blockbuster wine!