(still in barrel): Ruby-red, a bit less saturated than the 2007. Crystallized black cherry, cassis, licorice and violet on the nose. Leaner on entry than the 2007, then broadens impressively in the middle, offering a dense, silky texture with a lovely light touch. The dark fruit, espresso and menthol flavors are slightly liqueur-like but boast excellent definition and lift. Finishes with firm tannins that will require bottle aging.

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The estate's 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select is one of those rare wines that looks like it will be absolutely delicious pretty much at any point in its life. Super-refined and silky, the 2008 caresses the palate with layers of deeply expressive dark fruit. The 2008 is a wine of exceptional textural finesse and pedigree. According to Doug Shafer, cool weather in the spring resulted in small clusters with high skin to juice ratios, always a plus for high quality wines. Today the 2008 does not look like a huge Hillside Select, but is rather a wine built on polish and elegance. It will be interesting to see if the 2008 fills out in bottle, or it remains more restrained in its personality. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2038.

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Muscular and tightly wound, yet beautifully focused and proportioned, dense and chewy, with rich layers of dried currant, black- berry, spice and licorice flavors. Demands cellaring.

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