($175) Vivid gold. Deeper, smokier and more perfumed than the Indigene, displaying strong mineral, spice and orange pith aromas that gain strength with aeration. Spicy, impressively penetrating citrus and floral flavors are complemented by an exotic, faintly musky note of mace and pick up anise and iodine nuances on the back half. Very rich but almost shockingly lithe, finishing with superb clarity and lingering spiciness.

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The 2008 Chardonnay Point Rouge pushes intensity and richness to the limit. It is an extravagant Chardonnay with tremendous amounts of buttered tropical fruits, white peaches, hazelnuts, almond paste, brioche, crushed rocks and spring flowers. As always, the 2008 Point Rouge is one of the most profound California Chardonnays produced. It should keep for a decade or more.

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The nose seems shy, but don't be misled. This is a fascinating wine, brimming with ultrarich, concentrated and layered flavors of fig, spice, apple pie, gingerbread, wet rock and cedar, with subtle oak touches.

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