($65) Good deep red with ruby highlights. Deep aromas of black raspberry, espresso, smoky tea and exotic spices. Dense, broad and classically dry on entry, then rich and powerful in the middle palate, in a rather muscular style in the context of this set of pinots. Firm acidity gives shape to the red fruit and brown spice flavors. (I would have guessed this was vinified with some whole clusters, but it wasn't.) Finishes with solid, building tannins. Give this three or four three years in the cellar.

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