($72) Bright ruby. Intensely perfumed bouquet displays red berries, potpourri and star anise. Michael Browne told me that he used a lot of whole clusters this year "to increase the spiciness. The fruit is always powerful and I wanted to bring an extra dimension." Pliant, juicy red fruit flavors are complicated by notes of cinnamon and spicecake, with slow-building smokiness. Finishes with refreshing tangy cut and a strong echo of raspberry.

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This is dense, pure, rich and supple, displaying tiers of black cherry and blueberry fruit. Ends with a long burst of flavor.

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Very bright and focused fruit. With cherries, chocolate, rhubarb, and a good deal of smoke, which was a bit out of balance.