(bottled at 13.8%; $67) The most complex wine among these '07s with a layered nose that combines a subtle trace of framing wood as well as mild spice hints on the red and blue pinot fruit aromas that precede rich and relatively full-bodied flavors that display just a touch of backend bitterness that should dissipate rapidly. Overall, I like the solid balance, length and finishing depth. Worth a look.

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($67) Deep ruby-red. Smoky, complex aromas of blackberry, cola, sassafras and black cardamom. Powerful dark berry flavors display liqueur-like depth, with framing chewy tannins slowly sucked up by the dense, sweet fruit. The tannins recur on the finish, which strongly echoes the deep dark berry and cola notes. Serious stuff, and deserving of another five years in the cellar.

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A collection of wines from some of Williams-Selyen's neighbors results in a formidable blend called Pinot Noir Westside Road Neighbors. The 2007 exhibits a deep ruby color as well as sweet, gamey, raspberry, black cherry, and boysenberry fruit intertwined with a crushed rock-like minerality, medium body, and vibrant acidity. Unquestionably, it is the finest as well as sexiest of these generic offerings. It will drink beautifully for 5-7 years.

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Pretty ruby color with a refined nose. Soft red fruits, moderate earthiness and slight floral overtones. Well integrated on the palate with light to moderate cherries, cassis and a pleasing minerality. Ready to drink now and should develop another year with drinking window another 5 years.