($54) Bright red. Ripe cherry and blackcurrant aromas are complicated by cola and rooty sassafras. Powerful, deeply concentrated berry and cherry compote flavors coat the palate, with dusty tannins providing firmness. A sexy note of candied flowers gains volume with air and carries through the strikingly long, sappy finish. This benefited a lot from air and should be given a few more years of rest. These vines were planted in 1970, according to Cabral.

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The 2007 Pinot Noir Bucher Vineyard is a surprisingly austere, tannic, and unformed wine that still needs time in barrel. This was one of the 2007s that just wasn't singing on the day of my tasting.

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Light nose of berries. Ruby red. Soft tannins. Nice raspberry and peach. Ready now.