($75; an 86/14 blend of cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc) Good full medium ruby. Expressive aromas of cassis, graphite and spices. Lush and sweet on entry, then much more complex in the middle palate than the Ranch bottling, with spicy red and darker fruit flavors complemented by chocolate and loam. Finishes very broad, with sweet, pliant tannins and excellent persistence. Happily, the Napa Valley extravagant pricing flu hasn't spread to this producer yet.

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The dazzling 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve (86% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Cabernet Franc) requires 2-5 more years of bottle age, but should evolve for three decades. Its dense purple color is accompanied by a thrilling bouquet of espresso roast, smoked herbs, licorice, creme de cassis, blackberries, and ink. The wine hits the palate with a blast of fruit, a full-bodied mouthfeel, and tremendous purity, definition, and length. The sensational purity and exquisite balance between all its elements are impressive as well as noteworthy.

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Firm, ripe, intense and concentrated. Full-bodied, chewy and rustic, with dried currant, blackberry and blueberry, mineral, graphite and tobacco leaf. Ends with persistent tannins.

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Still young and developing. Well made.