($175) Slightly hazy yellow. Expansive aromas of toasty lees, poached pear, anise and minerals, with a subtle vanilla bean quality. Deep orchard fruit flavors are firmed by bitter citrus zest and peach pit and gain tangy minerality and a smoky peatiness on the back end. The sexy mineral and smoke notes repeat strongly on the finish, which is broad, sappy and impressively long. Wild stuff, and flat-out delicious right now. Morlet called this "the winemaker's wine, while the others are terroir wines."

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The 2007 Chardonnay Point Rouge (280 cases) is probably the most reserved, restrained, and backward of all the 2007 cuvees. It has enormous richness and weight, but no heaviness can be detected. The wine is very dry and tastes like liquid stones intermixed with tropical fruits, quince, white peach, and a hint of apricot. The wine seems almost tannic in its structure, but is big and probably capable of lasting a decade or more.

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A deliciously rich, creamy style, with smoky, toasty oak wrapped around fig, melon and honeysuckle. Full-blown, focused, concentrated and persistent, with a long, amazing finish. Drink now through 2015. 270 cases made

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