($175; 70% cabernet sauvignon, 17% cabernet franc, 10% merlot and 3% petit verdot) Vivid ruby. Youthfully backward aromas of cassis, violet, licorice and tobacco. Chewy dark berry and bitter cherry flavors are framed by solid tannins and complemented by smoky mineral and sweet chewing tobacco elements. Tough to read but highly concentrated, showing a strong finishing licorice and smoky mineral character and a lingering cherry pit note. Give this at least a few more years of bottle aging. (JR)

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The 2007 Les Pavots, a Bordeaux varietal blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Cabernet Franc, 10% Merlot, and 3% Petit Verdot, is brilliant. Its opaque purple color is accompanied by gorgeously complex aromas of melted chocolate, espresso roast, blackberries, and cassis. Full-bodied with a superb texture, a subtle note of oak, and fabulous concentration, it is more reminiscent of a Right Bank Bordeaux than one expects with this much Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. A thirty-year wine, its impeccable balance and the sweetness of its tannins make it accessible already.

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Bordeaux-like in structure, this is pure, rich and focused on ripe, plush blackberry, wild berry, currant and cedar. Full-bodied, layered and structured, firming on the finish, where the cedary and minerally notes take hold. Ends with drying tannins. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot.

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