($110) Hazy, pale chartreuse color. An exotically perfumed nose displays heady aromas of citrus and orchard fruits, minerals, nougat and dried flowers, with a slow-mounting saffron quality. Deep, weighty pear and Meyer lemon flavors are underscored by smoky mineral and lees notes, which gain power with aeration. Smooth, spherical and strikingly persistent on the very long finish, which repeats the floral and smoky notes.

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The amazing 2007 Chardonnay Cuvee Indigene reveals plenty of waxy, leesy, honeysuckle notes intermixed with orange marmalade, brioche, pineapple, and white citrus scents. The wine is buttressed by considerable acidity and a remarkable finish. This extraordinary effort may be the finest Cuvee Indigene I have ever tasted.

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This intense white is marked by toasty, smoky oak and dashes of hazelnut, but the core ripe fig, melon and honeysuckle flavors are pure, still a touch raw, but concentrated, ending with a long finish.

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