($53) Inky violet color. Seductively perfumed scents of blackberry, mulberry, candied plum and smoky Indian spices. Ripe, fleshy and gently sweet, offering assertive dark berry and anise flavors and slow-building tannins. Repeats the anise and mulberry notes on the long, sappy, alluringly spicy, peppery finish. This wine is already showing very good complexity.

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The higher-end wines begin with the 2007 G.A.M. Shiraz. Purple-colored, it offers an alluring bouquet of spice box, black cherry, blueberry, and a hint of chocolate. This leads to a concentrated, ripe, layered wine with excellent depth and length. Already complex, it will continue to evolve with another several years of cellaring.

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Ripe in flavor and jazzy in style, with boysenberry and gentle tarry flavors gliding smoothly over polished tannins and lingering on the harmonious finish. 3,000 cases imported

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Poor wine. Musty, jammy, hot - really not a good year for this at all.