($140) Good full ruby. Sweet, ripe aromas of dark berries, graphite and flowers. Creamy and lush, with an almost confectionery sweetness leavened by exotic floral lift and perfectly integrated acidity. This wine, which comes from a vineyard above Dalla Valle and Showket in the eastern hills of Oakville, has a relatively low 3.5 pH and was harvested in mid-October. Sexy soil tones add complexity. Finishes with broad tannins, excellent grip and length, and lingering sweetness. This is seamless in the way of many 2007s but not at all heavy.

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The prodigious 2007 Materium exhibits an even more opaque purple color, and ratchets up the level of intensity and aromatic complexity. Blackberry, black raspberry, blueberry, and cassis aromas intermixed with notes of crushed rocks, spring flowers, and toasty new oak are found in this beauty. Outstanding intensity along with full-bodied power and beautifully integrated acids, tannins, alcohol, and wood suggest this 2007 should hit its peak in 5-7 years, and evolve for three decades or more.

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A riveting wine, notably rich and sophisticated, with layers of plush yet firm mocha, blackberry, plum and wild berry flavors that are full-blown. A dash of lavender and mineral, with floral scents, give this great depth, persistence and range of flavor, followed by a grand finish.

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