($85) Deep ruby-red. Ripe, inviting aromas of black raspberry, cedar and tobacco. Fresh and well-delineated, with black raspberry and tobacco flavors lifted by minerality. This has more verve than a wine with a 3.9 pH should have. Finishes very long, with fine-grained tannins. The strongest release yet under this label.

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Slightly deeper, richer, more exuberant and flamboyant is the 2007 Matriarch. It offers up notes of white chocolate, espresso roast, peppery, spicy herbs and terrific fruit intensity presented in a medium to full-bodied, lush, opulent style.

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Tight, firm and focused, with a trim, concentrated, structured mix of blackberry, wild berry, currant, mineral, cedar and sage. Full-bodied, then clamps down on the finish, where this shows its cedary cigar box edge.

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This wine just keeps getting better. A restrained style for an '07 cab, but very balanced and a real pleasure. Very good to excellent.