(from two very large parcels of vines totaling over 3 ha) A mild hint of exotic fruit together with honeysuckle and slight oak influences gives way to rich, full and notably generous medium weight plus flavors that possess good mid-palate fat and extract, which serve to buffer the firm acid spine on the wonderfully fine and lingering finish. A lacy, long and stylish wine of finesse rather than power.

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($260; bottled just two weeks before my visit) Pale, bright yellow. Complex nose melds stone fruits, honey and white flowers. Rich, silky and voluminous, with lovely inner-mouth aromatic character to the flavors of yellow peach, flowers and honey. The peachy fruit is joined by firm minerality on the long finish. Easier to taste today than the Combettes, but at least as good.

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All tasted from tank at the winery with winemaker Eric Rémy in Nov 2008. The wines are moved from barrel to cuve just before the harvest, so they usually spend about 3-4 months in tank. 20% new oak.Tight citrus, very pure. Tangy and elegant, complex and long though you cannot pin down any particular fruit flavour. Ginger? (JH)

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The Leflaive 2007 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles offers minerality, finesse, and lift that leave behind its premier cru siblings. Seductive lily, heliotrope and iris along with high-toned herbal and pit fruit essences on the nose find their counterpart in wafting, bitter-sweet perfume and pure essence of peach and quince on a silken palate. There is a Chevalier-like sense of salt and stone shimmering through curtains of fruit in the finish. But the appropriateness of diaphanous metaphors here should not mislead one into suspecting a lack of concentration. In the end, this is implacably persistence, encompassing a tactile dimension to its sense of chalkiness. Hints of honey and toasted almond well up as this takes on air, suggesting an additional dimension of future richness.

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A rich, open-textured white, with lemon, lime, apple and spice notes. Turns more elegant on the finish, offering toast and spice on the aftertaste, with a perception of light tannins. There's grip as well, with a sense that this is holding back a little right now.

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