($90) Glass-staining ruby. Aromas of raspberry, licorice, sexy potpourri and Asian spices are lifted by a smoky mineral topnote. Dense, sappy and penetrating, with a deep sweetness and lovely inner-mouth perfume to the red berry, floral and spice flavors. Impressively large-scaled yet suave and vibrant owing to its superb balance and intense minerality. Finishes with striking aromatic persistence and lingering floral notes. (JR)

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The Cuvee Cathleen is amazing stuff, only to be eclipsed by the 2007 Pinot Noir Cuvee Elizabeth Bodega Headlands. Sweet black raspberries, camphor, and forest floor notes intermixed with a cocktail of spring flowers all jump from the glass of this full-bodied, gorgeously proportioned, rich wine that is about as compelling as California Pinot Noir is capable of being. It has a Burgundy-like structure, but its great purity of fruit and dazzling texture and length are awesome. This wine should drink well young but hit its stride in 5-6 years and last for 15-20 years.

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