($75) Greenish gold. Vibrant aromas of pear, lime, powdered stone, mace and nutmeg. At once supple and lively on the palate, with excellent precision to the citrus and orchard fruit flavors. Tightly wound and taut but a few minutes of aeration brings out a sweeter melon quality that carries through a long and sappy finish.

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The minerality is evident in virtually all of these wines. It jumps from the glass of the 2007 Chardonnay McCrea Vineyard. This cool Sonoma Mountain site offers up notes of tropical fruit, honeysuckle, citrus blossoms, and wet stones. It is full-bodied, crisp, restrained, but loaded with concentrated fruit and long in the mouth.

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