($75) Greenish gold. Stony, tightly focused aromas and flavors of citrus zest, green apple and iodine give way to deeper peach and floral honey with air. Offers an intriguing blend of rich and energetic fruit and floral flavors, with slow-building smokiness. Finishes with palate-staining lemon and chalk qualities and an echo of honey. After the previous wine this seems positively Rubenesque.

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One of my favorites is the flamboyant 2007 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard. Incredible fragrances of honeysuckle and tropical fruits as well as caramelized oranges and nectarines offer thrilling aromatic fireworks. Full-bodied, with terrific purity and a layered mouthfeel, this is a stunning Chardonnay that should come into its own in 1-2 years and last for a decade.

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