($55) Light yellow. Smoky citrus and pit fruit aromas are complicated by saffron and crushed stone nuances. Broad, fleshy yellow plum and orange flavors are energized by bitter lemon pith and honeysuckle and pick up a dusty mineral character on the back end. The smoke and floral notes repeat on the long, chewy finish. I'd serve this with the richest fish preparations. This is a blend of clones, notes Rochioli: number 95 ("the fruity one"), Hanzell ("the floral one") and Wente ("the mineral one").

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The 2007 Chardonnay River Block (old Wente and Hanzell clones) has notes of lemon butter, a surprising amount of tropical fruit for this vintage, and terrific acidity. Although it is still somewhat closed, it is very long, rich, and promising. This wine should equal the 2006 and 2005 River Block, but probably needs another year of bottle age given the fact that this vintage seems to have produced wines of slightly more noticeable acidity, not to mention more restrained personalities.

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It's too bad I can't afford more of this stuff. Rochioli makes great wine and great chardonnay... Looking forward to more of this stuff!