($135; 15.5% alcohol) Full medium ruby-red. Aromas of blueberry liqueur, currant, licorice and fruitcake; exotic and high-toned. Then lush, sweet and fat with fruit; the most concentrated of these wines and the least obviously warm. But this very ripe and high-toned wine is not for burying in the cellar. Finishes with broad, building tannins.

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Hourglass's flagship wine, the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon is one of their strongest efforts to date. An inky/purple color is followed by subtle scents of barbecue smoke, black currants, black cherries, licorice, and a hint of oak. Full-bodied, generously endowed, and deep with loads of concentration, purity, and texture, it is approachable now, but should evolve for 20-25 years.

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Pushes ripeness to blackberry and black cherry pie flavors while retaining a delicate balance and tight focus. Full-bodied, polished and elegant, streamlined, riveting and most complex on the finish.

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