($55; 100% sangiovese; 14% alcohol) Good full red with a palish rim. Pure, superripe aromas of red cherry, violet, iodine and nutmeg. Superrich, highly concentrated and seamless, with densely packed flavors of raspberry, dark plum and marzipan. Finishes creamy-rich and explosively long, with a pretty violet note. This was so good I really had trouble letting the glass go. It's also the only time I can remember Fontalloro outclassing Rancia (of which I am a huge fan) by such a wide margin, something I had noticed even when tasting barrel samples of these two wines in the estate's cellar two years ago. I'd wait a good five years on this one, then enjoy it for another two decades. Proof positive that sangiovese is one of the world's great grape varieties.

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The 2007 Fontalloro is round, sweet and inviting, very much in keeping with the style of the vintage. The fruit tends towards the redder end of the spectrum vis-a-vis the Rancia and the Fontalloro seems to possess a touch more freshness. Floral, spiced notes add lift on the finish. As attractive as the 2007 Fontalloro is, and it is very pretty, the wine does not have a particularly bright track record of developing the noblest aromas and flavors in bottle. In my experience, it is better to err on the side of youth in deciding when to drink Fontalloro.

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There's blackberry and blueberry galore in this full-bodied wine, which has chewy tannins and a long, flavorful finish. Juicy and wonderfully fruity. Best after 2011. 3,335 cases made.

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