(from vines in both Puligny and Chassagne that is almost a 50/50 split and aged in 50% new wood) A discreet hint of post-bottling SO2 is just noticeable enough that I would suggest decanting this for 30 minutes first if you're tempted to try one young. Otherwise, a restrained and pure nose features notes of white flower, fresh citrus peel and a mix of pear and white peach which lead to richer, fuller and more powerful if not necessarily more concentrated broad-shouldered flavors that possess relatively fine detail and balance on the explosive and gorgeously long finish.

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($281) Very pale bright yellow. Deeper-pitched on the nose than the Bienvenues, with peach and white flowers dominating. Large-scaled and rich but precise, saturating and filling the mouth with flavors of white peach, minerals and crushed stone. Offers outstanding intensity without any impression of weight, not to mention superb energy. Terrific juice: I'd wait five or six years on this beauty.

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Grown in the fat neck of this grand cru that runs alongside Bienvenues and up to Pucelles, the Sauzet 2007 Batard-Montrachet smells with aggressive pungency of citrus oils, peach kernel, and quarry dust, then displays more overtly stony, alkaline mineral character, prominent acidity, and restrained sense of ripeness than one normally expects from this cru. Big-boned and palpably dense, it doesnâÂ?Â?t lack for a sense of energy nor does it become heavy, but on the other hand, those seeking charm or seduction from this palate-coating, ineradicably intense wine will at least for now be disappointed.

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