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Good medium red. Explosive aromas of red berries, Oriental spices, pepper and truffley underbrush. The wild but utterly silky palate offers extraordinary sweetness and perfume, but with a savory, firm edge giving it shape and grip. Not at all a blockbuster, but impeccably balanced wine. The finish features utterly noble tannins and outstanding rising length. This actually shows less obvious sweetness today than the Romanee-Conti and thus comes across as every bit as tight as that wine.

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More marked spice on the nose but in a darker mode than the Échezeaux. A cedary note, too, a touch of coffee, revealing delicate red-fruit aromas underneath. Firm but so gentle grip, like the hand that leads rather than the hand that pushes. As with the Échezeaux, something slightly exotic. The finish is clenched but still very long. Very fresh aftertaste. Elegant and trailing. (JH)

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The 2008 La Tache amply illustrates why this monopole is the darling among most of those lucky enough to regularly taste or collect the wines of the Domaine de La Romanee-Conti. Hints of mocha, vanilla, maraschino, and almond paste lend a confectionary note to generously rich cassis and raspberry, while Latakia tobacco, peat, clove, black pepper, star anise, and cumin contribute commune-typical Vosne-Romanee personality in spades. The high-toned, sweet themes continue inner mouth, with intimation of heliotrope, rowan, and lily perfume, while the wine's smoky, spicy elements seem to descend into a low-register undertone of roasted red meats and forest floor. As this opens to the air, a subtly sweet-saline suggestion of lobster shell reduction adds richness and succulence. Strikingly creamy in feel, this La Tache nevertheless possessed a fresh berry edge that helps convey vibrancy to a finish that practically glows in your mouth, offering another of those Burgundian paradoxes of light and dark. Here, de Villaine's case for long-term potential is easily made, and I expect this will richly reward at least 15-20 years of attention.

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Different than the rest of the range from barrel and different in bottle, with a nose that's unevolved, dense and spicy. Displays deep, rich blackberry, black currant and licorice flavors on the palate, building and expanding to the long mineral finish.

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