($65) Good full ruby-red. Initially reticent nose shows black fruits, black olive, pepper, wild herbs, dried rose and violet face powder as it opens in the glass; I would have picked this as northern Rhone and been shocked to find I was wrong. Sweet, dense and primary, with intense flavors similar to the aromas. Really remarkably energetic and delineated for Washington syrah, offering outstanding grip and inner-mouth perfume. This somehow saturates the palate while coming off as weightless. Finishes very long and fine, with lingering notes of pepper, herbs and spices. A great vintage for Cayuse's flagship bottling.

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Baron's 2007 Syrah Cailloux Vineyard is unusual for its combination of Cote Rotie-like bacon, smoky black tea, and floral aromatic overtones with rich chocolate and licorice, all of these mingling with sappy confitured dark berries. This is amazingly supple and silken-textured, not because the tannins were baked-out of the fruit on the vine, but instead simply because they're so fine. After setting you up for a continuation of its incredible richness all the way to a long finish, it introduces tar, black pepper, and an almost horseradish- and mustard green-like bite for an effect of spine- not just tongue-tingling invigoration. At the same time, the mouthwateringly carnal aspects of this multifarious performance are never far below the surface. (While I realize it isn't 'supposedâ?� to show up its Bionic Frog counterpart, when tasted alongside one recognizes that this must be having an exceedingly good day. I suspect this Cailloux will remain well worth revisiting for the better part of a decade.)

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Tar, hot stone and licorice notes weave through the rich, dark plum, mulberry and currant aromas and flavors. A complex, beautifully knit wine that lets its flavors sail through a long, compelling finish.

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