($70; 15.2% alcohol) Medium bright red. Complex but reticent aromas of cherry liqueur, strawberry, earth and pepper. Fat, sweet and almost liqueur-like but fresh for this bottling, with thick, mouthfilling texture and outstanding concentration. This saturates the entire palate, finishing with lush, sweet, building tannins. Doesn't have quite the definition of Christophe Baron's top syrah bottlings, but then this is still coated with baby fat.

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The Rhone-style offerings begin with the 2007 Grenache God Only Knows. According to Baron, it is a blend of 90% Grenache and 10% 'God only knowsâ?�, hence the name. It was aged in puncheons (500-liter barrels) from Cote-Rotie producer Rene Rostaing. Dark ruby-colored, it sends up a sensational aromatic array of mineral, underbrush, truffle, bright cherry and raspberry aromas. Incredibly intense, vibrant, and lingering on the palate, this superb effort will surely evolve as well as any great Chateauneuf-du-Pape.

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Dark and peppery, with a distinct black olive character running through the pretty plum and guava fruit. Lingers with delicacy.

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