($325) Good full ruby. The nose delivers a blast of blackberry, cassis and melted black licorice, along with a hint of fresh vanilla bean. Very sweet and lush, with superb intensity and energy to the complex, almost candied flavors of currant, crushed stone and flinty minerality. This was a thick fruit bomb in barrel a year ago, but today it impresses more for its clarity, definition and terrific mineral grip. I love the combination of fruit sweetness and acid spine, and the tannins are very suave. The pH here is 3.92 and the alcohol on the label is "only" 14.9%.

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Potentially a candidate for perfection, the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon is the finest Bryant Family wine since the aforementioned 1997. Striking aromas and flavors of blackberries, blueberries, flowers, smoke, truffles, and sweet berries lead to a wine with profound concentration, a silky, layered mouthfeel, perfect integration of tannin and wood, and remarkable depth, intensity, and balance. The finish lasts nearly a minute. This stunning Cabernet should age nicely for 20-30 years.

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At points rustic and rough-hewn, but also enormously complex and layered, with dense, elegant herb, olive, cedar, blackberry and wild berry fruit that is full-blown and tightly focused, rich and layered, gaining velocity on the finish while retaining a sense of wildness.

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