($285) Dark fruits, cola, smoke and licorice on the nose, lifted by a floral element. Then densely packed and sappy, with a strong mineral component and firm acidity giving the wine outstanding clarity and class and contributing to the explosiveness of its very long finish. Here the tannins are currently hidden by sheer flavor. I find this more suave than the 2006 bottling at the same stage of its evolution.

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Not surprisingly, the 2007 St. Eden flirts with perfection. Another Pauillac look-alike, it offers up glorious aromas of cedarwood, creme de cassis, spice box, high class unsmoked cigar tobacco, roasted herbs and a hint of mocha. The complex aromas brilliantly conceal the long aging in new French oak. This compelling, singular, full-bodied, multilayered, sensational Cabernet Sauvignon can be drunk early (because of the flamboyance and unctuosity of the vintage), but promises to provide thrilling consumption in 30+ years.

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Ripe, juicy, vivid blackberry, black cherry, currant, sage and dusty, cedary oak form a tight core of flavors. Full-bodied, intense and expansive, gaining depth, focus, length and complexity on the lingering finish.

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